Rungis: Inside the World's Largest Food Market

Send us Fan Mail Rungis: Inside the World's Largest Food Market Seven kilometres south of Paris, larger than the entire Principality of Monaco, there is a place that most visitors to the city will never see. It opens at three in the morning. It employs 13,000 people every single day. It supplies food to 18 million people across the Île-de-France. And it quietly underpins every extraordinary meal you have ever eaten in France. This is Rungis — the world's largest wholesale food market — and in this episode of Fabulously Delicious, we're going inside. But to understand Rungis, you first have to understand what came before it. For nearly a thousand years, the beating heart of Paris's food supply was Les Halles — the sprawling, magnificent market in the centre of the city that Émile Zola called le ventre de Paris, the belly of Paris. We're telling the full story of that market, its iconic Baltard pavilions, the last extraordinary night when Parisians gathered to say goodbye with flowers and brass bands and farandoles around vegetable crates — and then the move of the century itself. Over one weekend in February 1969, 1,000 wholesale companies, 20,000 people and 5,000 tonnes of goods made the journey south in 1,500 trucks. A former general managed the logistics. US President Nixon was visiting Paris the same weekend. And according to a legend nobody has ever quite disproved — some of the rats that had called Les Halles home for generations climbed aboard the removal trucks and made the journey too. Today Rungis is the engine room of French gastronomy. We're walking the entire site — the vast fruit and vegetable sector, the meat pavilions, the seafood hall with its nightly veterinary checks, the dairy and gastronomy sector, the organic pavilion, and the extraordinary flower market that most people never know exists. We're talking about who actually shops here, how to visit, the restaurants that serve steak frites at four in the morning, the onion soup tradition that survived the journey from Les Halles and never left, and the direct line between this market operating through the night and the quality of food on Parisian plates the following day. My book Paris: A Fabulous Food Guide to the World’s Most Delicious City is your ultimate companion. This is a new 2026 update for the book and you’ll find hand-picked recommendations for the best boulangeries, patisseries, wine bars, cafés, and restaurants that truly capture the flavor of Paris. You can order it online at andrewpriorfabulously.com For those who want to take things further, why not come cook with me here in Montmorillon, in the heart of France’s Vienne region? Combine hands-on French cooking classes with exploring charming markets, tasting regional specialties, and soaking up the slow, beautiful pace of French countryside life. Every contribution makes a huge difference.